Measure & Pre-cut — this is a little unconventional, but this upfront work will pay off during the final install as well as aid in the painting process.

Stool — temporarily attach scrap casing to simulate final install on the window to calculate the sill length. (NOTE: stool will extend ½” beyond casing in this design)

Headers — tack up temporary casing (scrap 10”) and measure for the final header length. Do not forget to add the reveal of ¼” (illustrated below).

Plinth Detail — (bottom of door casing) – cut to 8-1/2” and add the fillet detail to the top.

Base Boards — Using the measurement from the take-off drawing, pre-cut or assemble the Trims to required lengths leaving about ½’ extra for removal during final install.

Casings — Pre-cut casing to required lengths leaving about ½’ extra for removal during final install.

Headers — Cut the head Casing to the appropriate length. This will drive the measurements for the fillet and caps. Cut and fully assemble the head casings. We used the PVC Cement & CA Glue combination only. NO nails or screws required. If you choose to use fasteners, cover the holes with a light spackle and sand prior to painting.

Painting — we will look at the Good, Better, Best scenarios for applying the Paint to PVC Trim. You can choose based on level of comfort with each process and environmental circumstances.

GOOD — Brushing: If you choose to brush, the results will vary depending on the atmospheric conditions. Rapid drying paint will tend to leave brush mark texture in the finish.

BETTER — Brushing & Rolling: The addition of the roller will help provide a smoother texture, but the brush marks will be visible in corners.

BEST — Spray: This option provides the best finish overall. We used a HVLP gravity feed cup (cost $60.00) with a 2.2 tip size. We did not reduce the coating and used the manufacturers recommendations for the gun settings. If you have access to an air compressor and an area to paint (outside lawn) this will produce the best finish. Spray outdoors for proper ventilation. With the HVLP gun, overspray was not an issue. Upon completion, we staged them in the room and allowed them to dry overnight. The coating will dry to touch in about an hour and may be re-coated (if necessary) after two hours. One coat was sufficient for our application.

Plinth Application — Apply adhesive to the back of the block Position on the wall/door jamb (leave reveal) Toe-screw a trim head screw at the top back portion of the block hidden by the casing.

Casing Application — Measure the casing by setting it atop the plinth and transferring the reveal mark. Cut accordingly. Pin both ends of the casing Apply glue to the back of trim Position on the wall, align with the reveal mark, and tap the top of the casing to set pins into place with a hammer. Toe-screw a trim head screw at the top back portion of the block hidden by the head casing.

Pinning the Casing — Drive 2” finish nails into the ends of the trim leaving ¾” exposed Clip the nails about 3/16” from the substrate The remaining nail will act as a pin to lock the mating trim.

Head Assembly Application — Apply adhesive to the back of assembled head casing Position atop the casing and align end of head base and outside casing. Lightly tap the header to engage the pins and lock into place Align casing and end of head casing.

Stool / Apron Application — Measure and notch the stool to rest inside the window opening. The stool should extend beyond the casing. We extended ½”, but its design specific. The Apron is cut to align with the casing. Apply glue to the back of trims. Position on the wall and align with temporary casing. We used clamps to maintain position as the adhesive set.

Pining the Casing — Drive 2” finish nails into the ends of the trim leaving ¾” exposed. Clip the nails about 3/16” from the substrate. The remaining nail will act as a pin to lock the casing into the stool.

Base Application — Position base against wall and plinth to establish proper length. Cut to size and apply adhesive. Press into place. If additional holding is required, toe-screw trim head screws into the top of the profile. The cap will conceal the fasteners. Place the cap atop the base and mark length and return notch. Cut, glue and press into place!